You put out a hummingbird feeder expecting tiny aerial acrobats…and instead you get a
full-on bee convention. Suddenly your feeder looks like a sugary airport terminal, and the
hummingbirds are circling like, “Hard pass.”
The good news: you can keep bees away from your hummingbird feeder without harming
pollinators or turning your yard into a chemistry lab. The trick is to make your feeder
easy for hummingbirds and annoying for bees. Hummingbirds have long tongues and can sip nectar
from deeper ports; most bees can’t reach as far, and they’re also strongly drawn to certain colors
and sticky spills.
Below are seven hummingbird-safe, bee-friendly strategies that actually workplus some real-world,
“this is what people do when it’s 95°F and the feeder is getting mugged” experience-based tips at
the end.
Why Bees Swarm Hummingbird Feeders in the First Place
Hummingbird nectar is basically a neon “FREE CARBS” sign. Bees, wasps, and ants all know sugar water
is quick energy. If the feeder is drippy, has easy access ports, or sits right next to
blooming flowers (aka Pollinator Central), insects can take over fast. Once bees “map” a food source,
they’ll returnoften with friends.
1) Switch to a Saucer-Style (Bee-Resistant) Feeder
If you only change one thing, change the feeder style. Many “tube” feeders hang like a bottle and let
nectar sit close to the openinggreat for bees. Saucer feeders (also called basin feeders) usually
have feeding ports on top, and the nectar sits deeper inside, making it harder for bees to reach.
What to look for
- Top-feeding ports (ports on the lid, not on dangling flowers below)
- Deep wells so hummingbirds can reach nectar with their long tongues
- Easy-to-clean design (you’ll thank yourself later)
Think of it like club security: hummingbirds are on the VIP list, and bees are stuck outside arguing
with the bouncer.
2) Add Bee Guards (But Make Sure They Aren’t Yellow)
Bee guards are small mesh screens or plastic tips that cover feeding ports. They reduce access
for bees while still letting hummingbirds feed. But here’s the twist: some guards are yellow, and
yellow can be a bee magnet. If your “bee deterrent” is also a bee billboard…well…you see the problem.
How to use bee guards the smart way
- Choose red or clear guards when possible (or non-yellow parts).
- Make sure guards fit snugly and don’t crack or warp over time.
- Watch for dripssticky guards can attract insects even more.
If your feeder has decorative flowers around the ports, swap them to red or remove the yellow ones.
You’re not redecorating for aestheticsyou’re redecorating to avoid a bee rave.
3) Remove Yellow (and Other Bee-Attracting Colors) From the Feeder Setup
Hummingbirds are famously drawn to red. Bees are strongly attracted to yellow (and often
other bright “flower cue” colors). If your feeder has yellow plastic flowers, yellow bee guards, or a
yellow base, you may be inviting bees to the buffet.
Quick color fixes that don’t require a craft store meltdown
- Pick a feeder that’s mostly red, not multicolor.
- Replace yellow port flowers with red replacements.
- Avoid hanging yellow décor (ribbons, tags, bright garden ornaments) near the feeder.
You’re basically changing the sign outside from “Open Nectar Bar” to “Exclusive Hummingbird Lounge.”
4) Stop Leaks and Eliminate Sticky “Nectar Perfume”
Bees don’t just sip nectarthey lick spills. A feeder that drips is like leaving a trail of candy
crumbs from the sidewalk straight to your front door.
Common leak causes
- Overfilling (especially in bottle-style feeders)
- Cracked reservoirs or worn gaskets
- Feeder hanging at an angle
- Loose lids or cross-threaded parts
No-drip habits that help immediately
- Fill only to the recommended linedon’t “top it off” like it’s a gas tank.
- Hang the feeder level and stable (wind swing = slosh = sticky mess).
- Wipe the outside after filling with a damp cloth, then dry it.
- Replace worn seals; if the plastic is cracked, retire it.
Bonus: fewer leaks also means less fermentation and fewer mystery odorsgood for birds, good for you,
and good for your reputation as a responsible nectar bartender.
5) Move the Feeder (Strategically) and Use Shade to Your Advantage
Bees tend to forage heavily in bright, sunny areas. Hanging a feeder in partial shade can make it
less attractive to bees and help keep nectar cooler (slower spoilage). If bees have already “locked on,”
a location change can also disrupt their routine.
Placement rules that usually work
- Hang in bright shade (like under a tree canopy) rather than full sun.
- Keep some distance from major blooming patches where bees are already working.
- If bees won’t quit, move the feeder 10–25 feet away (or more) for several days.
Hummingbirds often adapt quickly to a moved feeder. Bees can be more persistent about returning to the
“old address.” Think of it as changing the Wi-Fi password, but for insects.
6) Keep Nectar Fresh (and the Feeder Cleaner Than a Coffee Shop Espresso Wand)
Cleanliness won’t magically erase all beessugar is sugarbut it does remove residue, prevent
drips from sticky buildup, and helps keep hummingbirds safe. Spoiled nectar can ferment and grow mold,
which is risky for hummingbirds.
The safest nectar recipe (simple on purpose)
Use 1 part refined white sugar to 4 parts water. Skip honey, brown sugar, “raw” sugar, and artificial
sweeteners. Also skip red dyeuse a red feeder instead.
How often to change nectar
- Hot weather: change more often (sometimes every 1–2 days if it’s scorching).
- Mild weather: every few days is often fine.
- Any time it looks cloudy: dump it immediately and wash the feeder.
Cleaning method (fast, effective, hummingbird-safe)
- Rinse with hot water and scrub with a bottle brush.
- Use a diluted vinegar solution if needed, then rinse thoroughly.
- Let it dry fully before refilling.
A clean feeder won’t smell like a science experiment and won’t have sticky sugar crystals on the ports.
That alone reduces the “come hither” signal to insects.
7) Give Bees a Better Option Elsewhere (So They Stop Treating Your Feeder Like a Food Court)
You don’t want to “win” against beesyou want to redirect them. Bees are essential pollinators, and
the goal is peaceful coexistence: hummingbirds at the feeder, bees doing bee things somewhere else.
Bee-friendly diversions that help
- Plant a pollinator patch away from the feeder (native flowers are best).
- Provide a shallow water source with stones or marbles for landing.
- Keep flowering herbs (like mint) in a separate areagreat scent, different destination.
Important: avoid spraying insecticides around feeders. It can harm pollinators and create a bigger mess
for wildlife overall. Redirecting is safer, simpler, and doesn’t turn you into the villain in a backyard nature documentary.
Quick Troubleshooting: “Okay, But the Bees Are STILL Here”
If bees are crowding the ports
- Switch to a saucer feeder or add better-fitting bee guards.
- Check for leaks and wipe away any sticky residue.
- Move the feeder into bright shade and away from major blooms.
If wasps are the real problem
Wasps can be more aggressive than bees and may access nectar differently. Bee guards help, but also prioritize
a top-feeding saucer design, strict no-drip maintenance, and frequent cleaning. If you’re seeing a lot of wasps,
removing yellow parts becomes even more important.
If ants show up too
Use an ant moat (a small water barrier above the feeder). Ant moats won’t stop flying insects, but they
do stop ant trails from turning your feeder pole into an ant highway.
Bottom Line
The best way to keep bees away from your hummingbird feeder is a one-two punch:
bee-resistant feeder design + zero drips + smart placement. You’re not trying to eliminate bees from your yard
(please don’t). You’re simply telling them, politely but firmly, that the hummingbird feeder is not their VIP lounge.
Experience-Based Add-On: What People Typically Notice (and What Usually Works)
I can’t claim personal backyard ownership (no lawnmower in my inventory, sadly), but there are very consistent
“this happens every summer” patterns birders and gardeners reportand they line up with what the science and
extension guidance suggests. Here are a few common scenarios and how they usually play out in real life.
Scenario 1: “The feeder was fine…until the heat wave.”
A lot of bee takeovers start the same way: the feeder is peaceful in late spring, then a week of blazing temperatures
hits and suddenly insects arrive in numbers. What’s happening is a mix of faster nectar spoilage, more thirsty insects,
and more feeder sloshing if it’s hung where wind and sun bake it all day.
In these cases, the most “felt immediately” fix tends to be moving the feeder into bright shade and switching
to a smaller fill volume so you can refresh nectar more often without wasting a pitcher every day. People often
find that filling halfway (and cleaning more frequently) beats filling to the brim and hoping for the best.
Scenario 2: “Bees are only on THIS feeder, not the other one.”
When someone runs two feeders and bees bully only one, the culprit is often design. Tube feeders with lower
flower ports can be easier for bees. A saucer feeder nearby may get far fewer insects simply because the nectar is less
reachable and the top ports don’t drip as easily.
The practical move many people make is to keep the saucer feeder as the “main station” and either retrofit the tube feeder
with better guards or retire it. It’s not dramatic; it’s just choosing the tool that causes fewer problems.
Scenario 3: “I added bee guards and…now there are MORE bees.”
This one is surprisingly common. The guards are there, but they’re yellow or they’ve become sticky from tiny drips.
The fix is usually swapping yellow pieces for red/clear parts, then doing a deep clean and a leak check. Once the “sticky
candy smell” disappears, the swarm often calms down.
Scenario 4: “Moving the feeder felt silly, but it worked.”
Relocating a feeder can feel like you’re playing hide-and-seek with insects (because you are), yet it frequently helps.
A common approach is to move it 10–25 feet away for a few days. Hummingbirds generally find it quicklyespecially if the
feeder is still visiblewhile bees often keep checking the old spot before giving up.
Scenario 5: “I don’t want to ‘fight’ bees. I just want them over there.”
People who don’t want a bee war tend to have the best long-term success. The strategy becomes: make the feeder less
accessible, then provide alternatives. A small bee water station (shallow dish with landing stones) placed away from
the feeder can reduce the number of thirsty bees hovering around the hummingbird ports. A separate pollinator patch can
do the same thing for foraging.
Scenario 6: “Nothing worked until I fixed the drip.”
The most underappreciated detail is also the least glamorous: a tiny leak. Even a slow seep creates sugar residue that
draws insects like a magnet. Once the gasket is replaced or the cracked reservoir is swapped out, bee pressure can drop
fastsometimes overnightbecause the “free samples” are gone.
Scenario 7: “Now the hummingbirds actually come back.”
When bees crowd ports, hummingbirds may avoid the feeder entirely or only dart in briefly. After the feeder gets changed
to a saucer style, moved into shade, and kept clean, many people notice hummingbirds feed more calmly and more often.
The yard becomes what you wanted in the first place: hummingbirds doing tiny helicopter things, not bees running the whole operation.
The consistent takeaway: the “best” solution is rarely one magical trick. It’s usually a better feeder + no drips + smart placement,
with cleaning and nectar freshness keeping everything safe and hummingbird-friendly.