Spider crickets (also called camel crickets, cave crickets, or the deeply unfair nickname “sprickets”) are nature’s way of asking, “What if a cricket did CrossFit in a basement?” They’re all legs, all jump, and somehow always appear at the exact moment you’re carrying laundry and your dignity is already low.
The good news: spider crickets aren’t out to get you. The better news: you can get rid of themwithout turning your home into a chemical war zone. The best plan is part pest control, part home-improvement glow-up, and part “let’s stop running a free luxury spa for moisture-loving insects.”
Meet the Enemy: What Spider Crickets Are (and Aren’t)
Spider crickets aren’t spidersand they don’t chirp
Despite the name, spider crickets are insects (six legs, not eight), and unlike “true” house crickets, they generally don’t chirp. So if your home is quiet but you’re still getting jump-scared in the basement, that’s on them.
Are spider crickets dangerous?
For most homes, spider crickets are mainly a nuisance pest. They don’t sting, and they’re not known for spreading disease. They can, however, be grossly enthusiastic about nibbling on organic materials (think cardboard, fabrics, and sometimes other crickets) if conditions are right. Translation: not a medical emergency, but definitely a “why is my storage room being used as a salad bar?” situation.
Why they love basements, crawl spaces, and utility rooms
Spider crickets are basically humidity connoisseurs. They prefer cool, dark, damp environments and often move indoors when outdoor conditions get too hot, too dry, or otherwise inconvenient. If you’re seeing a lot of them, take it as a helpful (if horrifying) hint that your space may have a moisture problem that’s worth fixing anyway.
Quick Diagnosis: Are You Dealing With Spider Crickets?
Common hangouts
- Basements (especially near sump pumps, floor drains, and foundation walls)
- Crawl spaces (especially with bare soil or poor ventilation)
- Utility rooms (water heaters, HVAC condensate lines, laundry areas)
- Garages and storage rooms with cardboard or clutter
What counts as “a problem”?
One spider cricket is annoying. Several, repeatedly, in the same areasespecially if you’re spotting them in multiple roomssuggests your home has become an attractive habitat. And spider crickets tend to congregate, so “I only saw one” can quickly become “I saw one… and then twelve more had a meeting behind the dehumidifier I don’t own.”
The 3-Part Strategy: Dry, Deny, Destroy (The Spider Cricket Edition)
If you want results that actually last, think Integrated Pest Management (IPM): change the conditions that support them, block entry, then knock down what’s already inside. Pesticides can help, but they’re rarely the long-term hero if the damp, cozy environment stays the same.
1) Dry: Make your home less “cricket-friendly”
This is the big one. A lot of reputable Extension resources point to moisture control as the most effective long-term lever. If your basement or crawl space is humid, you’re basically hosting a never-ending spa retreat for spider crickets.
Targets that help: Many homeowners aim to keep indoor humidity around 50–55% or lower in problem areas (lower is often better, within comfort and building-safety limits). Use a cheap hygrometer to stop guessing and start winning.
- Run a dehumidifier in basements/crawl spaces, and empty it or use a drain hose.
- Fix leaks: plumbing drips, foundation seepage, window wells, and HVAC condensate issues.
- Improve airflow: use fans where appropriate and keep vents unobstructed.
- Address standing water: check sump pumps, floor drains, and downspout discharge points.
Reality check: If you reduce moisture, you’ll often reduce spider crickets dramatically. If you don’t, you can trap and spray forever and still feel like you’re losing a slow-motion trampoline fight.
2) Deny: Seal entry points like you’re guarding snacks from a raccoon
Spider crickets often get in through cracks, gaps, and openings around foundations, windows, doors, vents, and utility penetrations. Keeping them out is easier than negotiating with them once they’ve moved into your storage room.
- Caulk cracks in foundations and around windows/frames.
- Weatherstrip doors and basement entries; add a door sweep if there’s daylight under the door.
- Screen vents and basement windows where appropriate.
- Seal utility gaps around pipes and cables with appropriate materials (foam, caulk, or escutcheon plates depending on location).
3) Destroy: Remove what’s already inside (fast, clean, and satisfying)
Once you’ve started drying and sealing, you’ll want to reduce the current population. This is where traps, vacuuming, and targeted treatments shineespecially in the places you’ve actually seen them.
Best DIY Methods That Actually Work
Method 1: The shop-vac blitz (a.k.a. “welcome to the Thunder Dome”)
A vacuumespecially a shop vacis one of the quickest, least-toxic ways to knock down spider crickets on contact. Vacuum the corners, wall-floor edges, behind storage bins, and around sump areas.
Pro move: Empty the canister (or dispose of the bag) outside right away. Spider crickets are athletic and unreasonably persistent.
Method 2: Sticky traps (the quiet overachiever)
Glue traps are a classic for a reason: easy, low-mess, and they work while you sleep. Place them where spider crickets travel:
- Along foundation walls and baseboards
- Near sump pumps, floor drains, and utility lines
- Behind stored items (not buried under themgive the trap a fighting chance)
- In crawl space entry zones and along the perimeter
Bait tip: A small piece of dry pet food or similar bait on the trap can increase catches in some situations. Replace traps regularlydust and humidity reduce effectiveness, and nobody wants a “historic exhibit” of last month’s crickets.
Method 3: Soapy water traps (cheap, effective, mildly petty)
Spider crickets are drawn to moisture. You can use that against them with a shallow bowl or tray of water plus a squirt of dish soap. The soap reduces surface tension, making the trap more effective.
Where it works best: In areas where you’re already seeing activity, especially when combined with moisture reduction (yes, it’s ironicuse a little water to win the war against water-lovers).
Method 4: Diatomaceous earth (DE) or boric-acid dusts (use with care)
Diatomaceous earth (food-grade for safer household use) can help by dehydrating insects that crawl through it. Lightly apply it in dry areas where crickets travel: cracks, crevices, and along edgesnot in big piles like you’re salting a driveway.
Safety notes:
- Avoid creating airborne dust; wear a mask if needed.
- Keep any dust products away from kids and pets.
- DE works best when it stays dryif your basement is humid, fix that first or it becomes decorative chalk.
Method 5: Targeted residual treatments (optionaland label law is real)
If you choose to use insecticides, stick to products labeled for crickets and follow the instructions exactly. Many effective strategies focus on exterior perimeter treatments and treating likely entry routes, rather than spraying everything that doesn’t move.
- Focus on foundation perimeters, cracks, and harborage areas (especially outside).
- Don’t “fog the basement” unless a professional recommends it for your situationmore product does not equal more smart.
- If you have a heavy infestation or sensitive conditions (pets, kids, allergies), consider professional help.
Outside Work: Make Your Yard Less Cricket-Friendly
Spider crickets often live outdoors near homes in moist, sheltered spotsthen wander inside when conditions push them. If you only fight them indoors, you may be treating symptoms while the source party continues outside.
Reduce outdoor hiding spots
- Remove leaf piles, damp debris, and clutter near the foundation.
- Move wood piles, boards, and stacked materials away from entrances and ideally away from the home.
- Trim tall grass, weeds, and dense groundcover near foundation walls.
- Be mindful with mulch: keep it from piling against the foundation where it holds moisture.
Fix the “water delivery system” you didn’t know you had
Check that gutters and downspouts move water away from the foundation. Poor drainage can keep soil damp, which keeps the cricket resort open year-round.
A Simple 7-Day Spider Cricket Game Plan
Day 1–2: Catch and measure
- Place 6–12 sticky traps in problem zones (more if you have a big basement).
- Buy or use a hygrometer to measure humidity.
- Do a vacuum sweep of known hotspots.
Day 3–4: Dry the habitat
- Run a dehumidifier and improve airflow.
- Fix obvious leaks and standing-water issues.
- Clear cardboard clutter and damp storage.
Day 5–7: Deny entry and reset
- Seal cracks and add door sweeps/weatherstripping.
- Replace any full/dusty traps and reposition based on where catches are highest.
- Do an outdoor cleanup pass near the foundation.
What success looks like: trap counts drop noticeably within 1–2 weeks, and sightings become rare. If catches stay high, you likely still have a moisture or entry-point issue (or both).
When to Call a Professional
DIY works for many homes, especially when moisture is addressed. But call a pro if:
- You’re seeing spider crickets in multiple rooms or every day for weeks.
- Your crawl space is difficult to access or stays damp despite efforts.
- You suspect bigger issues (foundation water intrusion, drainage failures, mold/mildew).
- You want targeted, exterior-focused treatments and monitoring without guesswork.
What to ask a pest professional: whether they’ll focus on moisture drivers, exclusion, and exterior harborage (not just interior spraying). A good plan should feel like a strategy, not a subscription to surprise chemicals.
FAQ: Fast Answers for Basement Peace
Why do spider crickets jump at me?
They’re not attacking youthey’re panicking. Their main defense is jumping when startled, and unfortunately their aim is… chaotic.
Will spider crickets go away on their own?
Sometimes populations drop when conditions change, but if your basement stays damp, they have no reason to leave. Fixing humidity and entry points is the long-term off-switch.
Do essential oils repel them?
Strong scents may deter insects in some cases, but oils are best viewed as a minor “supporting actor,” not the main character. Drying, sealing, and trapping are what consistently move the needle.
Conclusion: Turn Your Basement Into a No-Spricket Zone
Getting rid of spider crickets isn’t about finding the one magic spray. It’s about changing the environment so your home stops being the perfect hangout spot. Dry the space, seal the entrances, and use traps and vacuuming to reduce what’s already inside. Once moisture is under control, spider crickets usually lose interestbecause nothing ruins a cricket’s vibe like a basement that feels like a desert (but, you know, indoors and comfortable for humans).
Real-World Experiences: What Actually Helped (and What Didn’t)
I’ve heard every version of the spider cricket story, and they all start the same way: “I went downstairs for something innocentlaundry, holiday decorations, a can of paintand the basement threw a leggy little jump-scare party.” Here are the patterns that show up again and again in real homes, plus the lessons that saved the most sanity.
1) The ‘I bought traps but nothing changed’ phase.
Sticky traps work, but they’re not magical if the basement is still humid. One homeowner lined the perimeter with glue boards and caught plenty… yet still saw new crickets nightly. The breakthrough was embarrassingly simple: the humidity was hovering in the 60s. Once a dehumidifier got the space closer to the low-50s, trap counts dropped fast. The traps weren’t failingthe basement climate was recruiting replacements.
2) The ‘mystery moisture’ that wasn’t actually a mystery.
Another common scenario: someone swears the basement is “dry,” because there’s no obvious puddle. But spider crickets don’t need a swimming pool; they just need consistent dampness. In one case, the culprit was a downspout that dumped water right at the foundation. In another, it was an HVAC condensate line that dripped slowly into a corner no one checked. Fixing those made the house instantly less appealinglike taking down the neon “VACANCY” sign.
3) The cardboard empire that fed the enemy.
Spider crickets love clutter because clutter creates hiding spaces and can hold moisture. Cardboard boxes, paper bags, old rugs, and dusty corners create the perfect “don’t look at me” environment for crickets. One homeowner swapped cardboard for plastic bins with lids, elevated storage off the floor, and suddenly the basement felt less like a storage cave and more like a functional space. Bonus: it also helped them find the exact spot where crickets were traveling (the traps told the truth).
4) The shop-vac victory lap.
Vacuuming sounds too simple until you do it right. A quick “one pass and done” won’t change much. But a focused sweepedges, corners, behind appliances, around the sump, along foundation wallscan dramatically reduce the population you’re seeing. People who got the best results treated vacuuming like a short campaign: three nights in a row, plus immediate trap placement afterward. That combination made sightings drop sharply, especially once the space dried out.
5) The ‘I sprayed everything’ regret.
Spraying random products everywhere tends to create a sticky, smelly basement and a false sense of progress. The stories with the happiest endings were the ones where people used chemicals (if they used them at all) strategicallyusually focused on exterior perimeters and entry routeswhile prioritizing humidity control and sealing. In other words: they treated the cause, not just the crickets’ current mailing address.
The biggest takeaway: When spider crickets show up, they’re often acting like a tiny, jumping moisture alarm. Fix the dampness, block the gaps, then use traps and vacuuming for cleanup. Once you do that, your basement stops being a cricket hoteland starts being, you know, a basement.